entrance of All’Antico Vinaio, a small wine bar at Via dei Neri 65, a few steps east of the Uffizi. I go there every time I’m in Florence.

On Skype I interviewed Judy Witts Francini, long time Florence and Tuscan resident and cooking teacher of divinacucina.com for tips on how to eat in Florence where you’re among locals. I really enjoyed “seeing” her again after a few years. 

Tip #1: Avoid restaurants cited in guidebooks 

Many tourists clutch their guidebooks as they explore Florence, so eat only in restaurants in the guidebooks, where of course, they find other tourists. Locals don’t want to wait in lines at these popular tourist restaurants, so go to nearby ones not in guidebooks. 

For example, near the central market, Mario’s and Za-Za trattorias are both in guidebooks, but Pepo’s (pepo.it) in the same piazza is not. You’ll find more locals in Pepo’s. Judy says many tourists aren’t that adventurous. If they haven’t heard of a place, they don’t go there. Be adventurous and shut your guidebook at meal time. 

Tip #2: Eat a light dinner early in a wine bar 

Eat a light dinner in a wine bar at about 7:00 p.m. It’s a real challenge for your stomach to eat two big meals a day in a restaurant, so a light dinner in a wine bar works well. Plus at that hour, many locals drop by for a pre-dinner drink and snack, so you’re among Florentines. They dine at 8:00 or 8:30 but 7:00 works well for us North Americans. 

Tip #3: In summer head to four or five star hotels’ cocktail lounges 

In summer in the early evening, go to four and five star hotels’ cocktail lounges. In these quiet, elegant spots, business people go for drinks that come with appetizers. For example, sit back at the Savoy Hotel’s lovely rooftop lounge with beautiful Florence views and strike up some conversations. 

Tip #4: Go to pizzerias or restaurants serving steak 

Local people go to restaurants for food they wouldn’t normally cook at home. In Florence, that means pizzas and steaks in the evening, so you’ll find more Florentines in pizzerias and restaurants with steak on the menu. 

Tip #5: Ask local merchants for restaurant recommendations 

Don’t ask the hotel concierge or receptionist for restaurant recommendations. They’ll suggest popular tourist spots and may even be getting kickbacks. Instead ask the person who sells newspapers or the local fruit vendor for restaurants where you eat well and spend little –“dove si mangia bene e spende poco”. 

After you eat at that restaurant, ask your server for other recommendations in the neighbourhood. They’ll recommend friends or neighbours with similar eating places. 

Stay tuned next week for Judy’s specific dining recommendations in Florence. 

Bonus tip from Mama Margaret 

I found few tourists last June near Piazza Sant’Ambrogio in the east part of the city, on the edge of the centre, north of Piazza Santa Croce. In the morning local residents shop for food, housewares and clothes in the outdoor Sant’Ambrogio market. On a warm summer evening many Italians crowded the wine bars and restaurants. Almost no tourists. I dined very well in one of Judy’s recommended restaurants where the menu came in Italian only.